Saturday 31 March 2007

Continuing a theme… Today I ventured out to spend the morning walking through London’s oldest public cemetery, All Souls – Kensal Green. In what appeared to parallel my odd, eclectic mood of late, it was a ramshackle collection of Georgian catacombs next to simple markers overgrown in brambles next to Victorian mausoleums next to modern day tombstones.

Nothing starts a cemetery adventure off than a welcome sign like this. Of course, upon hearing this Amy was glad she chose to sleep in.

Clicking on the images will take you to a larger version.

Not sure WHO this is, or what he composed, but all I could think of (in true Ray form) was the Seinfeld episode with The Maestro. Sorry… I digress.

Wednesday 28 March 2007

By now you’ve come to expect the occasional odd nuance from me. Maybe some of you are surprised, but few of you shouldn’t be. First it was the bench pictures (which have long been ostracized to their own blog and now will be shamelessly plugged by pointing out the link in the right hand margin). Next it was the blue-hued photos from Rome (OK… THOSE were an accident caused by a bad camera setting). Then there’s my fascination with street sweepers. All of these probably have some sort of Freudian connotation, that I’m sure will all come out during therapy later in life.

I suppose I could bore everyone (did someone mention bench pictures again?) by telling you about my experience the other morning with “rail rage” on my commute to work, or maybe how the hallway entering our flat always seems to smell of curry, or even how we now have a family of ducks nesting in the water garden just below our balcony, but that would be... well... boring.

Lately… I’ve taken to photographing cemeteries. I just find them fascinating. This isn’t really a “new” fixation either as those family members that were dragged to a remote location on Long Island to see Theodore Roosevelt’s grave may attest to. For whatever reason, it seems I took more photos of gravesites on our recent trip to Ireland than anything else. Perhaps I’m going through a dark period with a slight macabre touch.

These were taken in a small un-named cemetery located next to our hotel in Dublin. I left Amy at the breakfast table whilst I took advantage of the rising sun that was casting some neat long shadows.

(Click on the image for the larger version)

Powerscourt Estates had acres of glorious, sculptured gardens and fountains, but when I climbed to the top of the ground’s watchtower I noticed something that wasn’t on the map, an overgrown graveyard with remnants of perhaps a chapel. The fun part was that the only access that I could find was a section of collapsed wall, which of course I climbed through. Needless to say, Amy didn’t join me.

(Click on the image for the larger version)

The cemetery associated with St. Kevin’s Monastery in Glendalough had several Celtic Cross style headstones which were perfect against the misty, hazy weather we had on our visit.

(Click on the image for the larger version)

Saturday 24 March 2007

Lions and Bitters and Ale… Oh My!!

Amy has been in Houston for business all week, so with nothing else better to do I spent the day walking through several different parts of London. No agenda, just me and my camera, and the name of four pubs: The Red Lion (Crown’s Passage), The Golden Lion, another Red Lion (THE most popular pub name in the UK), and The Black Lion. NOW do you get the title?

Here’s a photo diary of my travels:

Staple Inn on High Holborn was built in 1586 and one of the few buildings in the area that survived the Great Fire of 1666.

This is just a cool building near the Holborn Viaduct.

The entrance to the Central Criminal Court Building.

St. Paul’s Cathedral, still my favourite church in London.

This was from Postman’s Park which houses a memorial to men and women that performed heroic acts of self sacrifice.

Walking home, Green Park is still showing its signs of spring even though we had snow flurries this past Thursday.

The more I look at this statue of Queen Victoria in front of Buckingham Palace the more I realize that she could have probably kicked my butt.

This is a weird Ray moment (I know… I know… ANOTHER one). I just always get a kick out of the street sweepers that work the streets of Westminster. Not sure why… I just do.

Everyone has heard of Big Ben, but did you know that there was a Little Ben also?? It’s located just outside of Victoria Station.

There it is... Throw in a visit to the Museum of London and four pubs and you have how I spent my Saturday.

Sunday 15 March 2007

Just sit right back and you’ll hear a tale, a tale of a faithful trip.
If going to Dublin on St. Patty’s Day, don’t take a ship!!

A three hour tour… a threeeee hour tour...

OK… St. Patrick’s Day in Dublin sounded like a good idea, and it was, don’t get me wrong. It’s just a shame that the weekend was marred by the complimentary cruise of the Irish Sea.

Well… not really a cruise, but a ferry trip that due to gale force winds and a broken bow thruster caused us to spend nine hours, yes… that was NINE hours bobbing in high seas off the coast of Wales. Mix in an accident on the roadway causing a backup and we didn’t make it home until 1:30 AM Monday morning.

Oh…. Anyone needing a recommendation on coach tours that use ferry crossings? Contact Amy… she’ll give you ALL you need to hear.

Saturday 17 March 2007

St. Patrick’s Day!!

We had grandstand seats at the start of the parade which kept us away from the majority of the 630,000 spectators (mostly Americans... seriously… it was like Spring Break – Dublin). It was somewhat entertaining with high school and college marching bands (again… from America), some International groups, including one bagpipe group from Spain (I kid you not), and several local “pageants”. Pageants, from what we can tell, were local community groups (made up of ALL ages) all dressed colourfully with different themes.

Prior to the parade we visited Trinity College and viewed the Book of Kells, an original illustrated Latin translation of the New Testament created by Celtic monks in 600 AD. For me, the coolest thing I saw the WHOLE trip was walking through The Long Hall, which is where the oldest books of the college’s library were stored. We couldn’t take photos of it or the Book of Kells, but here is a photo found on the web. It really was awesome seeing all those tattered splines stored up to the ceiling.

After the parade we fought the crowds, sitting in a couple pubs watching Ireland play its 6 Nations rugby match. THAT was a blast!! Then we wandered through St. Stephen’s Green and Merrion Square. As in most European capitol cities there are ample statues commemorating national legends. Among those honouring Oscar Wilde and James Joyce, to name a few, was my favourite of the bunch that we accidentally stumbled across while roaming the streets.

John G… this one’s for you.

Friday 16 March 2007

Today we ventured out and toured the countryside with a visit to County Wicklow, stopping at the Powerscourt Estate and then later into Glendalough. Powerscourt Estate dates back to the 1600’s and is known as one of the most beautiful country estates in Ireland. We spent most of our time wandering through the formal terraced gardens, and I stumbled across an isolated cemetery (spotted from my visit to the top of the Watchtower).

Glendalough (pronounced Glenda-loch) is a valley located amongst the Wicklow Mountains and is the site of the remains of the 6th century monastery started by St. Kevin. It also has an example of a “round tower” which is specific to the Irish countryside.

Thursday 15 March 2007

Sooo…. Where would YOU go to spend St. Patrick’s Day if you could?? Anyone say Ireland?? More specifically Dublin?? That’s what we thought too, and today we were off on our coach tour to the Emerald Isle with complimentary cruise of the Irish Sea (more on this on Sunday’s post).

Our travels took us through Wales where among other things we were introduced to the term “sea mist” (Seems that’s Welsh for rain). One of our stops was at a village that touts the world’s longest name. Ready?? It’s

which translated means “St Mary's church in the hollow of the white hazel near to the rapid whirlpool and the church of St. Tysilio of the red cave”. I really think it mean “Place to stop and use the toilets while trying to get tourists to buy stuff”, but that’s just me.

Caught the ferry from Holyhead over to Dublin, checked into the hotel, and by 18:00 were in Dublin’s City Centre eating traditional Irish roasts and drinking Guinness.

Sunday 11 March 2007

No Planes, No Trains, and No Automobiles…

or Where East Meets West

On a whim on a simply glorious day we decided to take a boat cruise downstream on the Thames and visited Greenwich (pronounced “Gren-itch” for those unaware), home of The Old Royal Observatory keeper of Greenwich Mean Time and The Prime Meridian (Longitude 0۫ 0’ 0”).

We got a late start, but still were able to stand with one foot in the eastern hemisphere and one in the western hemisphere. Not often one can do that. Plus the views of London from Greenwich Park were something to see.

Saturday 10 March 2007

I’ve started a new “hobby” today. Along the lines of my Bench Photos (some of you may have noticed there is a link to my new “Bench Blog” in the right margin in an effort to keep this blog “bench free”).

I have decided to join a photo “group”, The Way We See It - London.

In a nut shell, it is an opportunity to go out and see different parts of London and take photos. Each week a new lesser known part of the city is “assigned” and one goes and takes pictures of this area. It’s not a contest, there is no rating, it is just a catalyst (for me anyway) to get out and see parts of London I wouldn’t normally go to. Plus… I’ve decided to research new pubs in these areas, because we ALL know how thirsty one gets when taking photographs.

Amy joined me on this first adventure, but I fear it may be her last as she was “baptised” by a pigeon on a high fibre diet as she sat on a park bench while I did my thing.

Once my photos “go live” I'll post a link. Plus… one can ALWAYS visit my bench pictures if one should so choose.

Sunday 04 March 2007

We had a late afternoon flight home which allowed Amy more shopping time and me a chance to wander the side streets and see the Scala Contari del Bovolo or Venice’s “Non-Leaning Tower of Pisa”. It’s just a five story exterior staircase of an old palace built in 1499, but it DOES look like the Tower in Pisa.

- Well, it's obvious that Ray has taken charge of the blogging. He's so much better at it - and he has the time to make it his own... HOWEVER... "a light nosh", "nicked treasures", "refurbishment" and "taking the lift"... What has happened to that Texan I brought to London nearly a year ago? I think he's gone a bit native on me.

Saturday 03 March 2007

Today was our “cultural” day, visiting St. Mark’s Basilica and the Doge’s Palace. St. Mark’s Square is full of idiots feeding those rats with wings (otherwise known as pigeons), and is also the lowest spot in Venice which leaves it prone to flooding. Several spots were holding water especially near the entrance to the church.

While not as expansive as St. Peter’s in Rome it is still impressive, just in a different way. The entire 11th century church is fitted with gold inlayed mosaics, and (also like Rome) contains nicked treasures acquired from The Crusades. The four bronze horses (taken from Constantinople) and the gold altar screen were the highlights. The Treasury Room contained some rather morbid relics of the bones of St. George and one of the Doges.

I was the only… how shall I say… “interested” one that went to the top of St. Mark’s bell tower, but wasn’t allowed to add it my “Things Climbed” list as you could only use the lift. However, I was there as the bells tolled noon which was a bonus, as were the views of the city.

Next was a walk through of the Doge’s Palace. The Doge of Venice was basically the “president” of Venice during it reign of power. Not a king… not a bishop/pope… but a Doge. I like the Stairway of Giants (the main entrance) and also the large “legislative” rooms, The Senate Hall and Main Council Hall that were adorned with gold painted wood work, large mechanical calendars, and scenes painted on every wall and ceiling.

The Bridge of Sighs connects the Doge’s Palace with the prison. Unfortunately, as with most things in Venice, there was some refurbishment going on next to it which made for a not very desirable photo. Later that evening we did the touristy thing and took a gondola ride. Honestly though… I know we were in Venice and it’s the thing to do… but it really wasn’t all that impressive. Plus our gondolier didn’t even sing.

Afterwards we finished with what turned out to be our best meal of the trip. We stumbled across this place on a side street near our hotel that did its best to discourage being “found” by tourists. No signs or menus displayed and the shades and curtains were all drawn closed. Philip peeked through a crack in the door, and saw that it was indeed open. Obviously, it was a local hangout as we watched the owner meet and greet those coming in.

It was here that I went against my usual bland palate tendencies and ordered the Spaghetti alla Venezia (the squid ink pasta), which turns the pasta, as well as, everything else it touches black!!! I also had calamari steak and grilled octopus.

Surprised??? I was.

Amy ended her meal with what she claims was the best tiramisu EVER.

Friday 02 March 2007

Today we visited the trade islands of Murano and Burano by catching the “vaporetti” (water bus… or big boat) from Venice. Murano is the sight of all the shops where hand made blown glassware is produced. Let’s just say… Amy made out like a bandit. Among her purchases was a chandelier to build her new dining room around once we get back to the states; because everyone KNOWS the first thing a house needs is a chandelier.

Burano is known for producing hand made lacework. This made it handy for Amy to buy a lace tablecloth for her dining room table that will go under her new chandelier. It is also a very scenic village. All the homes and buildings are painted different bright colours and honestly… is what I though Venice would look like. Very “postcard” picturesque. It is also the home for the church, St. Martin Bishop whose bell tower leans at 5 degrees like the tower in Pisa.

Thursday 01 March 2007

Arrive in Venice and take a water taxi to our hotel. Our small room (with a smaller shower) was very stylishly decorated in a Venetian sort of way, and had a view overlooking the Grand Canal. At first that sounds very chic, until you realize it’s like having a room next to an interstate. Still… it WAS pretty cool.

While waiting for Christine and Philip to arrive we took off walking and ended up having a light nosh off the canal near the Rialto Bridge. It was on our “shortcut” back to the hotel where we were introduced to the labyrinth that is local Venice. Dead ends, small bridges over canals, smaller alleys… but eventually we made our way back.

The four of us walked over to St. Mark’s Basilica and had drink at Harry’s American Bar which turned out to be an old Ernest Hemmingway hangout and the place where the Bellini was invented. Their Amaretto Sour needs some work though.

Thursday thru Sunday 01-04 March 2007

Hey Mambo… Mambo Italiano…

Amy had that song in her head for the whole weekend, which was fitting since we sampled all that is Venice plus some with her friend Christine and her husband Philip. They say the best way to “enjoy” Venice is to just wander the back streets, because since it’s a relatively small island you really can’t get lost… trust me… we tried.

Even in the birthplace of opera, the romanticism of a singing gondolier, the cultural expanse of early Venetian glory, and the charm of its splendid decay, for us… Venice was all about the food. Whether it was just cheese and antipasto in an outdoor café or lunch at a canal side bistro or squid ink pasta in a local ristorante (that tried oh so hard NOT to invite tourists) it was the food and wine (beer for Ray, thankyouverymuch) that stole the show.

Salute…