Wednesday 28 February 2007

Pub Update
For my complete list click on the link in the right margin.
22. The Jugged Hare: A refurbished bank building with a nice older “feel”, but not an authentic pub. We like the food there (try their Poacher’s Pie) and the high ceilings make for less smoke. Plus they serve Fuller’s ESB, my fav-o-rite ale.
23. The Clachan: SoHo area pub built in the late 1890’s and near The Palladium Theatre. Stopped in for a few before seeing The Sound of Music. Nothing special and not sure what the name implies.
24. Dover Castle: Small, HIDDEN pub built in 1777. Not very ornate inside, just your basic original, creaky, quaint, friendly “local” pub tucked back in a maze of alleyways near Regent’s Park. Worth a try to find, but bring a map.
25. Cock & Lion: Drawn in by name alone, and was disappointed with the upstairs portion. Very modern. The downstairs seemed more authentic, but it was way too crowded.
26. Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese: A MUST see!! Built in 1677 on Fleet St, but still need to know where it is as the entrance is off a small alley. Really cool series of small rooms, hallways and stairs. Like nothing I’ve visited so far. Dickens-esque.
27. Seven Stars: Built in 1602 and survived The Great Fire. Located behind the Royal Courts and part of the pub is an olde wig shop. It was supposed to have won an award for being one of the best dinner pubs, but find that hard to believe as there was a small pile of cat food on the bar.
28. St. George: Small local refurbished pub on the backside of our flat. Several TV screens and off the beaten path might make this a nice one to re-visit for watching a rugby match.
29. Audley: VERY roomy Victorian pub in Mayfair. Crystal chandeliers, dark panelling, and a LONG ornate bar benefiting from either being well preserved or having a “non-altering” renovation.
30. The Guinea: Tuck away amongst the mews in Mayfair, parts of it go back to the 1600’s. Cosy little place more know for its food as it is the 3-time winner of Britain’s Best Steak & Kidney Pie. (attached restaurant was frequented by the likes of Frank Sinatra and Liz Taylor)
31. Ye Grapes: Tucked away in Shepherd Market away from the Mayfair bustle. Built in 1882, it has surprisingly high ceilings and cool wood carvings over the bar.
32. Red Lion: Near Parliament built in the late 19th century. Etched mirrors behind the bar. Not bad, just not “special”.
33. Cock & Bull: Modern Fuller’s pub (much like The Jugged Hare) in Sutton. Literally can see it from my office window. Scene of a couple “businessman” lunches.
34. The Old Star: Right next to St. James’ Park tube stop and claims to be a traditional pub. Sorry… but if you offer free WiFi… you’re NOT a traditional pub.
35. The Feather: Again in the St. James’ Park area. Was built in the late 1870’s, but the victim of a modernizing refurbishment that reduces its character.
36. The Strutten Arms: A cluttered dark, local pub built in 1848 with neat little alcoves along the side wall. Seems Peter Sellers and friends developed the old BBC radio show “The Goons” here.

Saturday 24 February 2007

Trendsetters!! (and didn’t even realize it)

After spending the late morning walking through Green and St. James’ Parks checking out how many daffodils were fooled by the mild winter (surprisingly more than I thought)… then an impromptu afternoon mini-pub crawl (sorry, but you can’t be a traditional pub if you offer free WiFi)… then venturing to St.George Tavern to watch England get absolutely SPANKED by Ireland in Six Nations Rugby… we decided to spend the evening in Kensington.

First we visited Bill Wyman’s Sticky Fingers restaurant for dinner before making our way over to Piano Kensington, a small little place that was the coolest evening we’ve had in a long time.

We were lucky enough to grab seats at the bar where we met and visited with the owner (and performer) Bazz Norton. Little did Amy realize that when she ordered that first Cosmopolitan that it would cause such a chain reaction. Seems the girly pink-hued cocktail in a martini glass caught the fancy of EVERY one else in the packed house. Toward the end of the evening, Bazz leaned over to the bartending staff and asked, “What the hell is with all the Cosmopolitans tonight?”

To which they just nodded their collective heads towards us and explained, “She started it!!”

Who knew?

Tuesday 20 February 2007

Happy Mardi Gras Day!!

Except here... here it's Pancake Day. Read HERE more details.

Show me your waffles!!

(oh.... and Happy Birthday Steph!!! Our baby is 20 years old today -sniff-)

Sunday 18 February 2007

I saw a werewolf with a Chinese menu in his hand...
Walking through the streets of Soho in the rain...
He was looking for a place called...

Gonna get a big dish of beef chow mein...
Ah-ooooooooo, Werewolves of London... Ah-oooooooooooo

Happy New Year!!!
Chinese New Year that is.

On a whim we strolled over to Chinatown this morning to take in the festivities. Watched the parade then walked through the heart of Chinatown.

Funny thing... Beef Chow Mein isn't even ON the menu at Lee Ho Fook's. Well, maybe it is during the full moon.

Ah-oooooooo....

Tuesday 13 February 2007

Day IV

First thing this morning we re-visited St. Peter’s to mail some postcards from the Vatican Post Office. Since the line to enter the Basilica was almost non-existent we decided to take another visit. This time we visited the crypts below the main floor that contains the papal tombs. The moving part of this was seeing how many people came specifically to honour the tomb of John Paul II. It also speaks volumes of the man that was JP2 comparing his plain stone tomb to those of the more egomaniacal creations of some of his predecessors.

The rest of the day was spent visiting some “other” churches in Rome. Now… let me say this. We stopped in a few parochial churches yesterday as we past them, and even the ones that could only seat 200-300 people were magnificent inside. From the outside, one might not even realize that it was a church, but the frescos, the marble statues, the domes… Those Renaissance Catholics could really do churches.

Back to today’s activities… First up was a visit to St. Peter-In-Chains that was built originally in 440 AD, but “redone” in 1475. However some of the columns of the original church are still used. This church was built to house the chains that bound St. Peter when he and St. Paul were imprisoned in Rome. They are presented within the main altar of the church.

It also contains the Michelangelo sculpture of Moses that was to be part of the tomb honouring Pope Julius II. Again… pictures (well, MY pictures that is) can’t capture the detail of his work. Along one of the side walls there were some pretty creepy memorials to “someone”. Seems my Latin isn’t what it used to be and wasn’t able to translate.

Next was one of the oldest and best preserved churches in Rome, Santa Maria Maggiore. Built in 432 AD to honour the Virgin Mary this church contains what is believed to be the remains of Christ’s manger contained in an urn and displayed in a niche below the main altar.

Along with some of the best preserved mosaics of ancient Christian Rome, the church also houses the tomb of Pope Sixtus V who probably is most responsible for Rome as it is seen today. He initiated the levelling of medieval Rome and the building of the “new” grand churches connected by long boulevards in the 16th century.

Lastly we visited the basilica of San Giovanni in Laterno the FIRST Christian church built in Rome in 318 AD, and basically the original St. Peter’s if you will. Up until 1870 all the Popes were crowned here and is the sight of the original Papal Palace.

Several relics from the pagan temples of Roman times are built into this Christian basilica. The large doors in the main entry are from Rome’s Senate House in the Forum, and the chapel in the left transept contains an altar framed by large gilded bronze columns that tradition says are from the Temple of Jupiter considered to be the holiest spot in ancient Rome.

Adorning either side of the nave are twelve huge statues depicting each of the apostles added when the church was “redone” in the 1600’s. The floor plan of this church was the reference point of most of the main churches in Rome, including St. Peter’s.

Monday 12 February 2007

Day III

Vatican City. Seems the Pope wasn’t home. Well... he didn't answer when we knocked.

So… if you aren’t awestruck by that first turn into St. Peter’s Square by the shear expanse, then just wait till you get inside. Pictures don’t do it justice. Michelangelo’s Pieta was the “artistic” highlight (I guess), but the smaller domes, the marble columns, the memorial statues, the Papal altar (made from metal “recycled” from the original pagan Roman sites), and the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament were all to much to take in. Seriously, we could have stayed here all day.

I added St. Peter’s Dome to my “Things I’ve Climbed” list, as I climbed the stairs the whole 390 ft. to the top. Amy took the lift to the gallery (the interior ring looking over the Papal Altar), but chose to let me go solo the rest of the way. Good thing because you actually have to lean to one side as you make your way up between the narrow space between the exterior and interior domes. It was worth it not only for the accomplishment of making the climb, but for the view from the very top.

The Vatican Museum was next.

I really liked the Greek and Roman statues, not sure why…just one of those things. The Tapestry Room was ok… but just entering the Map Room was incredible, almost like the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles (almost). There was some refurbishment work going in the Rafael’s Rooms making them VERY crowded so we didn’t get to truly appreciate them.

The Sistine Chapel. You know… I didn’t realize it wasn’t in St. Peter’s itself, but once you realize the Museum was originally the Papal Palace I guess it makes sense. I digress. Where was I?? Oh yeah… You’ve seen the pictures, you know the history, but it’s like seeing the Pyramids for the first time; nothing prepares you for actually SEEING it. The room was packed, but we were able to snag a couple of seats on the benches against the wall, and sit down and truly appreciate what it was we were experiencing.

This evening we took an “Illuminated Rome” coach tour that ended with dinner. There were only two couples that signed on for the meal (us and a Dutch couple), but the four course meal in a family style Italian restaurant ended up being the highlight. The special treat was the operatic entertainment supplied Francesco and Elizabeth. Amy was so impressed she purchased their CD as a memento (It didn’t have anything to do with the bottle of wine she had I swear!! They were pretty good).

Sunday 11 February 2007

Day II

This was one BUSY day. We started with “The Caesar Shuffle” beginning with a tour of The Colosseum, inside and out (with a touristy photo-op with real Roman centurion, well… that’s what he SAID!!). The sight of gladiator battles and wartime recreations it shows how ingenious Roman architects were. Built around 70 AD it could seat 60,000 spectators. Did you know, that Michelangelo, as well as, other Renaissance artists/architects oversaw the removal of most of the marble and metals from the Colosseum and Forum structures to “recycle” them into the materials needed to construct St. Peter’s (and other basilicas)?

I didn’t.

Just outside the Colosseum is the Arch of Constantine which celebrates his rise to power. It was Constantine that allowed Christianity to flourish.

We then walked through the ruins of the Forum which in its time was the centre of Rome, containing palaces and temples for the highest of Roman hierarchy. Again, most of it would still be standing if not for the Renaissance Recycling Project. Starting with walking under The Arch of Titus we past what is left of Caligula’s Palace and the Temple of Saturn.

Leaving the Forum we walked past the Victor Emmanuel Memorial (which the Italians don’t much care for) and it’s tomb of the Unknown Soldier on our way to Piazza Navonna and The Four Rivers Fountain which unfortunately was being refurbished and covered in scaffolding. There were smaller fountains at either end of the square, but still not the same.

Next was a proper visit to the Pantheon which while originally a pagan temple is now one of the oldest Christian churches. It is a circular temple with a Greek style pediment front façade. Its dome, with its open oculus top, was the inspiration for all the grand domed churches to follow, including St. Peter’s itself. The building itself is original, while the interior was refurbished during the 16th century and includes the tomb of the artist Raphael.

After stopping again at Giolitti’s we spent about 45 minutes at the Trevi Fountain just taking in the atmosphere, before trekking over to the Spanish Steps. OK… I know these are a big tourist destination, but for the life of me can’t figure out why.

Steps… by the Spanish Embassy... Ya’ got me.

After cruising up and down past the chic stores (Prada, Versace, blah, blah, blah) on Via del Corso we stumbled into Piazza del Popolo and decided enough was enough and took a taxi back to the hotel.

I told you!! A BUSY day...

Saturday 10 February 2007

Day I:

Arriving at our hotel around 14:00 we unpacked and caught the hotel’s shuttle service to the City Centre. Armed with just a map from the concierge, an umbrella and a tour book we hit the streets of Rome. With no clue as to where we were being dropped off we were led by out own innate “Oooo that looks old/neat let’s go there” ability and strolled past the Forum, the Colosseum, The Arch of Constantine and eventually ending up at the Pantheon.

We had dinner at a little sidewalk bistro that faced the Pantheon and watched the crowds walk by. Afterwards, we visited Giolitti’s which is considered to be one of Rome’s most famous “gelateria” (gelato or Italian ice cream shop), and as the Pope as my witness it was the best freakin’ ice cream I’ve ever eaten.

Di Saronno Amaretto and dark chocolate. I highly recommend some today.

It is all about the food, right?

Saturday thru Wednesday 10-14 February 2007

Veni Vidi Feeti

We came, We saw, Our feet hurt.

We celebrated our wedding anniversary by taking a long weekend trip to Rome (I think it was our XXVI or was it XXVII?? I dunno they all seem to run together). Pulling out all the stops, we even got a room without twin beds. Rome, as one can imagine, is a bustling capitol city that is built around the ancient remains of the original city. Like Paris and Cairo there seems to be no regard for the philosophy of driving lanes in the city streets. Here, however, there wasn’t the incessant honking which is surprising considering all those pesky Vespas.

While the language barrier wasn’t much of an issue, I think I have decided to learn to speak Italian. Not only is it a good spring board to learning Spanish I just think it sounds neat.

Yo Caesar!!! Which way to my hotel??

Thursday 8 February 2007

Wet and Sloppy...

No... that wasn't the kiss I got this morning as I attempted my commute to work. It was the weather as they actually predicted correctly that we would have snow. "Wet" snow as a matter of fact, and that was exactly what it was.

Amy made it to work without a hitch, but I experienced just a couple of cancelled trains... making it to the office around 9:00, and allowing me some time to take a photo or two (YESssss... that's a bench in the background. Sue me.)



It seems (from talking with people at work) that this part of Great Britain hasn’t had any discernable snow in over five years.

…and now we’ve had two in less than a month. I wonder if we should feel fortunate or not?

Wednesday 7 February 2007

Amy has been home ill all week, and it is at this time we would like to dispel any rumours that she has come down with the avian flu that is in the news here recently.

Please keep any bird-brained jokes to yourselves.

…and with predictions of substantial snowfall (this statement in itself will “jinx” that prognostication, I’m SURE of it) tomorrow morning it doesn’t look like snow angels are in her immediate future.

Sunday 4 February 2007

Amy is still not feeling well and slept till 13:00, so we stayed in and watched the Ireland v. Wales Six Nations match. I really am digging this International rugby.

I also went to bed early, set the alarm, and woke up at midnight to watch The Super Bowl. Like the World Series, we get the international feed, so we don’t get the usual booth personnel, announcers or… the commercials (thanks to Steph for calling at halftime and giving me the advert highlights).

The only American in the studio booth was an NFL “fan”.

Fan??

A FAN??

Geez… give ME the job. The game itself was called by a chap named Spero DeDes (I’m sure his mother knows who he is) with colour done by Sterling Sharpe. While it was better than having his brother, Shannon babble about he did give up the following bit of expertise, “It’s not a no-huddle offense… they’ve just decided not to use a huddle”.

Saturday 3 February 2007

It’s official. I am now into international rugby as today kicked off the Six Nations competition. After meandering through Covent Garden Market early in the day Amy and I watched the opening test of France v. Italy while enjoying an ale (or two) in a pub. I then watched England run all over Scotland from the comforts of my recliner.

Not sure if I’ll wake up tomorrow at 11:30 PM to watch the Super Bowl, so this will just have to do.

Friday 2 February 2007

So what did YOU do today??

Amy was still in Hamburg (drinking at a brewery last time I heard), and it was my Friday off. Sooooo... I ventured into the Mayfair area and of all things had a shave at Geo. F. Trumper. One of those hot towel, lather, open straight razor, leather strop type shaves.

Why?? Because I can, that's why.

Geo. F. Trumper itself was a pretty cool little place. Established in 1875 it is recognised as the finest gentleman’s barber in London. It was quite the upscale establishment and I was completely out of my element. I wonder how many guys wearing jeans EVER walk in there? Who cares… I’d do it again.

After a shave, where does one go for lunch??

Well… why not the same establishment that Frank Sinatra has tried. Seemed like a natural fit. The Guinea is a 17th century traditional pub that has the distinction of winning the Steak & Kidney Pie Championship of Britain three times. I’m slowly learning there are several ways to present the traditional meat pie. This was different than anyone I’ve had, and if it weren’t for the kidney part… probably the best. I think I’ll stick to just steak and ale ones from now on, thankyouverymuch.

On my walk home, I passed the American Embassy (which they wouldn’t allow me to photograph), the Memorial to 911, and Reformer’s Tree in Hyde Park. Funny… I was expecting a real tree for some reason.