Tuesday 13 February 2007

Day IV

First thing this morning we re-visited St. Peter’s to mail some postcards from the Vatican Post Office. Since the line to enter the Basilica was almost non-existent we decided to take another visit. This time we visited the crypts below the main floor that contains the papal tombs. The moving part of this was seeing how many people came specifically to honour the tomb of John Paul II. It also speaks volumes of the man that was JP2 comparing his plain stone tomb to those of the more egomaniacal creations of some of his predecessors.

The rest of the day was spent visiting some “other” churches in Rome. Now… let me say this. We stopped in a few parochial churches yesterday as we past them, and even the ones that could only seat 200-300 people were magnificent inside. From the outside, one might not even realize that it was a church, but the frescos, the marble statues, the domes… Those Renaissance Catholics could really do churches.

Back to today’s activities… First up was a visit to St. Peter-In-Chains that was built originally in 440 AD, but “redone” in 1475. However some of the columns of the original church are still used. This church was built to house the chains that bound St. Peter when he and St. Paul were imprisoned in Rome. They are presented within the main altar of the church.

It also contains the Michelangelo sculpture of Moses that was to be part of the tomb honouring Pope Julius II. Again… pictures (well, MY pictures that is) can’t capture the detail of his work. Along one of the side walls there were some pretty creepy memorials to “someone”. Seems my Latin isn’t what it used to be and wasn’t able to translate.

Next was one of the oldest and best preserved churches in Rome, Santa Maria Maggiore. Built in 432 AD to honour the Virgin Mary this church contains what is believed to be the remains of Christ’s manger contained in an urn and displayed in a niche below the main altar.

Along with some of the best preserved mosaics of ancient Christian Rome, the church also houses the tomb of Pope Sixtus V who probably is most responsible for Rome as it is seen today. He initiated the levelling of medieval Rome and the building of the “new” grand churches connected by long boulevards in the 16th century.

Lastly we visited the basilica of San Giovanni in Laterno the FIRST Christian church built in Rome in 318 AD, and basically the original St. Peter’s if you will. Up until 1870 all the Popes were crowned here and is the sight of the original Papal Palace.

Several relics from the pagan temples of Roman times are built into this Christian basilica. The large doors in the main entry are from Rome’s Senate House in the Forum, and the chapel in the left transept contains an altar framed by large gilded bronze columns that tradition says are from the Temple of Jupiter considered to be the holiest spot in ancient Rome.

Adorning either side of the nave are twelve huge statues depicting each of the apostles added when the church was “redone” in the 1600’s. The floor plan of this church was the reference point of most of the main churches in Rome, including St. Peter’s.

Monday 12 February 2007

Day III

Vatican City. Seems the Pope wasn’t home. Well... he didn't answer when we knocked.

So… if you aren’t awestruck by that first turn into St. Peter’s Square by the shear expanse, then just wait till you get inside. Pictures don’t do it justice. Michelangelo’s Pieta was the “artistic” highlight (I guess), but the smaller domes, the marble columns, the memorial statues, the Papal altar (made from metal “recycled” from the original pagan Roman sites), and the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament were all to much to take in. Seriously, we could have stayed here all day.

I added St. Peter’s Dome to my “Things I’ve Climbed” list, as I climbed the stairs the whole 390 ft. to the top. Amy took the lift to the gallery (the interior ring looking over the Papal Altar), but chose to let me go solo the rest of the way. Good thing because you actually have to lean to one side as you make your way up between the narrow space between the exterior and interior domes. It was worth it not only for the accomplishment of making the climb, but for the view from the very top.

The Vatican Museum was next.

I really liked the Greek and Roman statues, not sure why…just one of those things. The Tapestry Room was ok… but just entering the Map Room was incredible, almost like the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles (almost). There was some refurbishment work going in the Rafael’s Rooms making them VERY crowded so we didn’t get to truly appreciate them.

The Sistine Chapel. You know… I didn’t realize it wasn’t in St. Peter’s itself, but once you realize the Museum was originally the Papal Palace I guess it makes sense. I digress. Where was I?? Oh yeah… You’ve seen the pictures, you know the history, but it’s like seeing the Pyramids for the first time; nothing prepares you for actually SEEING it. The room was packed, but we were able to snag a couple of seats on the benches against the wall, and sit down and truly appreciate what it was we were experiencing.

This evening we took an “Illuminated Rome” coach tour that ended with dinner. There were only two couples that signed on for the meal (us and a Dutch couple), but the four course meal in a family style Italian restaurant ended up being the highlight. The special treat was the operatic entertainment supplied Francesco and Elizabeth. Amy was so impressed she purchased their CD as a memento (It didn’t have anything to do with the bottle of wine she had I swear!! They were pretty good).

Sunday 11 February 2007

Day II

This was one BUSY day. We started with “The Caesar Shuffle” beginning with a tour of The Colosseum, inside and out (with a touristy photo-op with real Roman centurion, well… that’s what he SAID!!). The sight of gladiator battles and wartime recreations it shows how ingenious Roman architects were. Built around 70 AD it could seat 60,000 spectators. Did you know, that Michelangelo, as well as, other Renaissance artists/architects oversaw the removal of most of the marble and metals from the Colosseum and Forum structures to “recycle” them into the materials needed to construct St. Peter’s (and other basilicas)?

I didn’t.

Just outside the Colosseum is the Arch of Constantine which celebrates his rise to power. It was Constantine that allowed Christianity to flourish.

We then walked through the ruins of the Forum which in its time was the centre of Rome, containing palaces and temples for the highest of Roman hierarchy. Again, most of it would still be standing if not for the Renaissance Recycling Project. Starting with walking under The Arch of Titus we past what is left of Caligula’s Palace and the Temple of Saturn.

Leaving the Forum we walked past the Victor Emmanuel Memorial (which the Italians don’t much care for) and it’s tomb of the Unknown Soldier on our way to Piazza Navonna and The Four Rivers Fountain which unfortunately was being refurbished and covered in scaffolding. There were smaller fountains at either end of the square, but still not the same.

Next was a proper visit to the Pantheon which while originally a pagan temple is now one of the oldest Christian churches. It is a circular temple with a Greek style pediment front façade. Its dome, with its open oculus top, was the inspiration for all the grand domed churches to follow, including St. Peter’s itself. The building itself is original, while the interior was refurbished during the 16th century and includes the tomb of the artist Raphael.

After stopping again at Giolitti’s we spent about 45 minutes at the Trevi Fountain just taking in the atmosphere, before trekking over to the Spanish Steps. OK… I know these are a big tourist destination, but for the life of me can’t figure out why.

Steps… by the Spanish Embassy... Ya’ got me.

After cruising up and down past the chic stores (Prada, Versace, blah, blah, blah) on Via del Corso we stumbled into Piazza del Popolo and decided enough was enough and took a taxi back to the hotel.

I told you!! A BUSY day...

Saturday 10 February 2007

Day I:

Arriving at our hotel around 14:00 we unpacked and caught the hotel’s shuttle service to the City Centre. Armed with just a map from the concierge, an umbrella and a tour book we hit the streets of Rome. With no clue as to where we were being dropped off we were led by out own innate “Oooo that looks old/neat let’s go there” ability and strolled past the Forum, the Colosseum, The Arch of Constantine and eventually ending up at the Pantheon.

We had dinner at a little sidewalk bistro that faced the Pantheon and watched the crowds walk by. Afterwards, we visited Giolitti’s which is considered to be one of Rome’s most famous “gelateria” (gelato or Italian ice cream shop), and as the Pope as my witness it was the best freakin’ ice cream I’ve ever eaten.

Di Saronno Amaretto and dark chocolate. I highly recommend some today.

It is all about the food, right?

Saturday thru Wednesday 10-14 February 2007

Veni Vidi Feeti

We came, We saw, Our feet hurt.

We celebrated our wedding anniversary by taking a long weekend trip to Rome (I think it was our XXVI or was it XXVII?? I dunno they all seem to run together). Pulling out all the stops, we even got a room without twin beds. Rome, as one can imagine, is a bustling capitol city that is built around the ancient remains of the original city. Like Paris and Cairo there seems to be no regard for the philosophy of driving lanes in the city streets. Here, however, there wasn’t the incessant honking which is surprising considering all those pesky Vespas.

While the language barrier wasn’t much of an issue, I think I have decided to learn to speak Italian. Not only is it a good spring board to learning Spanish I just think it sounds neat.

Yo Caesar!!! Which way to my hotel??

Thursday 8 February 2007

Wet and Sloppy...

No... that wasn't the kiss I got this morning as I attempted my commute to work. It was the weather as they actually predicted correctly that we would have snow. "Wet" snow as a matter of fact, and that was exactly what it was.

Amy made it to work without a hitch, but I experienced just a couple of cancelled trains... making it to the office around 9:00, and allowing me some time to take a photo or two (YESssss... that's a bench in the background. Sue me.)



It seems (from talking with people at work) that this part of Great Britain hasn’t had any discernable snow in over five years.

…and now we’ve had two in less than a month. I wonder if we should feel fortunate or not?

Wednesday 7 February 2007

Amy has been home ill all week, and it is at this time we would like to dispel any rumours that she has come down with the avian flu that is in the news here recently.

Please keep any bird-brained jokes to yourselves.

…and with predictions of substantial snowfall (this statement in itself will “jinx” that prognostication, I’m SURE of it) tomorrow morning it doesn’t look like snow angels are in her immediate future.

Sunday 4 February 2007

Amy is still not feeling well and slept till 13:00, so we stayed in and watched the Ireland v. Wales Six Nations match. I really am digging this International rugby.

I also went to bed early, set the alarm, and woke up at midnight to watch The Super Bowl. Like the World Series, we get the international feed, so we don’t get the usual booth personnel, announcers or… the commercials (thanks to Steph for calling at halftime and giving me the advert highlights).

The only American in the studio booth was an NFL “fan”.

Fan??

A FAN??

Geez… give ME the job. The game itself was called by a chap named Spero DeDes (I’m sure his mother knows who he is) with colour done by Sterling Sharpe. While it was better than having his brother, Shannon babble about he did give up the following bit of expertise, “It’s not a no-huddle offense… they’ve just decided not to use a huddle”.

Saturday 3 February 2007

It’s official. I am now into international rugby as today kicked off the Six Nations competition. After meandering through Covent Garden Market early in the day Amy and I watched the opening test of France v. Italy while enjoying an ale (or two) in a pub. I then watched England run all over Scotland from the comforts of my recliner.

Not sure if I’ll wake up tomorrow at 11:30 PM to watch the Super Bowl, so this will just have to do.

Friday 2 February 2007

So what did YOU do today??

Amy was still in Hamburg (drinking at a brewery last time I heard), and it was my Friday off. Sooooo... I ventured into the Mayfair area and of all things had a shave at Geo. F. Trumper. One of those hot towel, lather, open straight razor, leather strop type shaves.

Why?? Because I can, that's why.

Geo. F. Trumper itself was a pretty cool little place. Established in 1875 it is recognised as the finest gentleman’s barber in London. It was quite the upscale establishment and I was completely out of my element. I wonder how many guys wearing jeans EVER walk in there? Who cares… I’d do it again.

After a shave, where does one go for lunch??

Well… why not the same establishment that Frank Sinatra has tried. Seemed like a natural fit. The Guinea is a 17th century traditional pub that has the distinction of winning the Steak & Kidney Pie Championship of Britain three times. I’m slowly learning there are several ways to present the traditional meat pie. This was different than anyone I’ve had, and if it weren’t for the kidney part… probably the best. I think I’ll stick to just steak and ale ones from now on, thankyouverymuch.

On my walk home, I passed the American Embassy (which they wouldn’t allow me to photograph), the Memorial to 911, and Reformer’s Tree in Hyde Park. Funny… I was expecting a real tree for some reason.

Wednesday 31 January 2007

File this under: “Things You Don’t See Every Day”

Today at work around noon, a workmate brought it to our attention to look out the window.

Rounding the turn (as almost ALL London streets are bound to do) was a funeral procession lead by a team of white horses pulling a glass framed carriage holding a white casket with the name Anna formed in flowers on the top.

Not sure who you were Anna or what sort of life you led, but for a brief moment we all shared in your remembrance. Rest in peace.

Monday 29 January 2007

Amy was sick all weekend and spent most of it ingesting illicitly acquired American over the counter pharmaceuticals (i.e. Nyquil) trying to get travel ready for her work week in Hamburg. Other good news is that British Airways settled their differences with the air service union and she’ll be able to get home on Friday.

I HAVE A GOAL!!!

I have officially committed to ride in the UK’s largest charity bike ride, The British Heart Foundation’s London to Brighton ride. So me and 30,000+ of my soon to be closet friends will be hitting the pavement to the coast in June. That’s not a metric conversion… you read it correctly, Thirty THOUSAND cyclists.

So it’s back in the saddle, as I try to regain my cycling conditioning . Don’t worry, I’ll issue Spandex Shorts Photo warnings if warranted.

Wednesday 24 January 2007

I’m dreeeeeeeaming of a White….

You know….. That talk last week of how mild it was here??

Remember that??

Well… This morning we woke up to almost an inch of snow in the city. Just like that…It was winter. I was up early, got dressed and took a round about route to the train station this morning and walked through Green Park. It was something else making my way through as it lightly snowed issuing the first footprints in the first snow of the year.

Unfortunately, it was too dark for a photo op, and by lunch time when I went out to take these pics the snow was already melting away. These photos, by the way, are from Sutton, south of London where my office is. By the time for my trip home there was hardly ANY trace left.

Sunday 21 January 2007

Amy had to fly out to Copenhagen this afternoon, so I looked to fill my afternoon with some free entertainment. For the longest time I’ve been wanting to go check out Speaker’s Corner in Hyde Park. With its origin being tied to allowing people who were condemned to the gallows to speak their last words, it is now the area where anyone can come and publicly speak on whatever topic (except overthrowing the British government) they choose.

Most topics were political/religiously motivated. Most involve open debate with those gathered around the speaker, but ALL of them were spirited. My favourite was THIS guy. Ya’ GOTTA admire his perseverance. Either that or he needs to get there early and get a better spot.

Funny… NO one wanted to talk about how the designated hitter has ruined Major League Baseball. Go figure.

Saturday 20 January 2007

Today Amy and I ventured into the original City of London to see the Temple Church.

Originally built in 1185 by the Knights Templar it is tucked away and hidden amidst a myriad of courtyards, gardens and law offices. A very simple building inside and out, the church is known for its nine effigy tombs of medieval knights in the nave. Anyone seeing the movie The DaVinci Code will remember parts filmed in the church.

The International Mime Festival has been in town for several weeks.

http://www.mimefest.co.uk/intro2007.html

We thought about taking in a show or two but we couldn’t get Amy out of her glass box.

Thursday 18 January 2007

As Houston and most of Texas has been in the grips of (cue the dramatic theme music please… Dum-dum-DUUMM) The Winter Storm, we’ve had our own brand of severe weather here. Today the island was battered with a storm bringing winds with gusts of just under 100 mph. London itself had winds of 40+ mph.

I find it weird that Texas is dealing with freezing weather, while the temperature here was a mild 15°C (that’s almost 60°F for the metrically challenged). I’m sure the COLD weather is just around the corner.

I’ll save the discussion of MILES per hour and degrees Centigrade being used simultaneously for another day.

Wednesday 17 January 2007

You have been officially warned. This isn’t so much of an update as it is a rambling display of what has been bouncing around in my head lately. I promise… no bench pictures.

Since Amy is away traveling, (she’s either in Copenhagen or The Hague, or maybe it’s Hamburg, maybe that’s next week. I really need to check her calendar before I type) I ventured out for a pub dinner. Imagine that.

Sitting in The Jugged Hare (to be included in my next pub update), on a rather chilly evening, it was quite nice sitting at the bar enjoying my ale and a hot Poacher’s Pie. I couldn’t help but think as I ate my pastry covered rabbit, boar, venison and pheasant that this might actually have been more fitting served in Oscar’s trailer back in Splendora. I digress.

I knew coming over here that there would be certain vernacular differences. I can accept that, but some things just stike me as odd. Like why is it “dogtooth” instead of “houndstooth”? After all, there are foxhounds here. Why I even KNOW their is a difference or why it “bothers” me is somewhat scary, but then again… you were warned.

Saturday and Sunday 13-14 January 2007

These feets - they’re made for walking…

and that’s just what we did as we ended up having a real walk-a-bout weekend.

Saturday we walked ALL around Regent’s Park, which was the first visit for both of us. Not sure if we covered the complete 166 hectares (410 acres for those of you doing the conversions), but we gave it a shot. As nice as it was, it will be much more so in the spring when the rose gardens are in full bloom. Maybe then I’ll drag Amy to Abbey Road to take my photo in “the crosswalk”.

Also had lunch in a quaint little pub, Dover Castle, tucked… no… make that HIDDEN in a maze of alleyways off the main streets. I swear if I didn't have a map we would have never found it.

Sunday we walked past Buckingham Palace, through St. James’ Park and Trafalgar Square on our way to The National Gallery taking in the classics of Monet and Van Gogh.

Anyone else surprised that I've actually started to appreciate the Impressionists??

Observation: As we made our way past Buckingham Palace we were “delayed” by the Changing of the Guard ceremony.

Does that mean we are slowly getting assimilated to our surroundings and are now desensitised to the pomp and circumstance? Or are we becoming cynical olde people?

Thursday 11 January 2007

This post is dedicated to our good friend Sheryl M.

So tonight Amy and I went to the London Palladium, one of the premier West End theatres, to see Andrew Lloyd Webber’s production of The Sound of Music. Amy loved it, and I really enjoyed the technical aspects of watching the live stage effects.

How-EVER… The memories of the evening (for me) were of the people around us. We had decent seats in the Royal Circle and after locating them, settled in for the show. Amy sat to my left. On my right was one… how should I say… rather LARGE gentlemen. One of those guys that needs one and a half seats, and unfortunately for me I got to share that extra half seat with him. At least he wasn’t sweaty.

On Amy’s left was a lovely British lady that saw fit not only to sing along to most songs (poorly at that), but stomp her foot to the music. Yes… not tap, but stomp. If it were only that, it might have been tolerable, but it was her choice of “Eau de Edelweiss” perfume that made Amy’s night.

During the intermission, my seat buddy gets up allowing me to enjoy the full price of my ticket if only for a moment, so I spread out a bit. As Amy and I begin comparing notes on each other’s “neighbor” I couldn’t help but notice something. In the row in front of me, there was an elderly, frizzy haired lady bent over the back of her chair with her head right between my legs.

I couldn’t help but blurt out, “HEL-loo??”, as I sat upright giving her all the room she needed. Seems she lost her eyeglasses, but for the life of me I can’t figure out she thought they ended up BEHIND her and between my legs.

The General Public. Ya' gotta love 'em (or hate 'em).

I want it made perfectly clear that when Ray gave me the evil eye during "My Favorite Things" - it was NOT me singing! The show was great and I'll see it again with anyone who is interested.

Tuesday 9 January 2007

Did Amy mention to anyone that she "thinks" she saw Patrick Duffy getting into a car this past Sunday?? She "thinks"..... riiiiiiiight.

Also had my first experience with rail delays on my commute home yesterday with something about a broken down train in the Waddsworth Common area causing some scrambling on my part to get home.

All in all it wasn't too bad as I was only 60 minutes later than usual. (and STILL beat Amy home)

Saturday 5 January 2007

Pub Update:

I know everyone is wondering what new pubs I’ve ventured into lately. Here is a quick update.

14. The White Swan: Stopped in for a pre-rugby match drink (or two) at this traditional 17th century pub located on the river in Twickenham across from Eel Pie Island.
15. The Albany: Again in Twickenham. A refurbished “gastropub” where we had a post rugby match drink.
16. The Cardinal: Traditional pub built in the mid 1800’s near Westminster Cathedral where we attend Mass. Lots of dark wood panelling and etched mirrors.
17. Lamb and Flag: Considered the oldest pub in London established in the late 1600’s. Tucked away from the main streets, you have to wind your way down some side streets to find it.
18. Salisbury: Relatively “modern” pub built in 1892, but it was the mirrors and the cool Victorian light fixtures that was the best part of the interior.
19. Duke of York: Located next to the Victorian Palace Theatre and a five minute walk from our flat. Built in the 1820’s, it’s a nice place for dinner AFTER the Billy Elliot show starts.
20. The Shakespeare: Located across the street from Victoria Station and again just a five minute walk from the flat (ok… maybe 10 minutes). Need to go back one night and check out the attached piano bar.
21. The Sherlock Holmes: Not near Baker St. (actually between Embankment and Trafalgar Square), but a neat “themed” pub with a traditional feel. Constantly showing old Sherlock Holmes’ movies.

(from my 10 September entry)
1. The Iron Duke
2. The Albert
3. Ye Olde Watling
4. Princess of Wales
5. The Wig and Quill
6. Slug and Lettuce
7. The Elusive Camel
8. The Nightingale
9. The Crooked Surgeon
10. Rose and Crown
11. Hedgehog and Pheasant
12. Greencoat Boy
13. The Stonehenge Inn

21 December 2006 thru 01 January 2007

After a few hours delay at Gatwick Airport due to the icy fog, we were able to depart for Houston. We were quite lucky as Heathrow Airport was closed for several days. 13.5 hours on the plane – but we were headed home for Christmas! We had a great Christmas vacation visiting with the family. It was great to see everyone and we tried to fit in as much as possible during our 10 days in Texas. We missed some friends as this was a busy season for all, but we were able to catch up with quite a few (usually around a meal!). I think we each gained a bit of weight on this trip – but we just couldn’t pass up all of the home cooked meals and our favourite restaurants around town.

It really was a great trip and I’m so glad that we have the opportunity to get back home a few times per year, I know that there are many who are not so lucky. We’re blessed with wonderful families and friends. I hope that some are able to visit us during 2007!

Monday 19 December 2006

Took the tube out to Hammersmith to catch the latest concert stop of Tenacious D, the comic/musical duo headed by Jack Black. The venue was the Hammersmith Apollo (originally The Odeon), which had been the site of many, MANY classic rock shows throughout the years. Springsteen’s shows in 1975 and David Bowie’s last performance as Ziggy Stardust are just to name two.

It was quite the entertaining show, but the one thing that stood out to me was just HOW much the crowd got into it. Maybe it was my seat or the smaller venue or the acoustics of the building, but you could hear the crowd sing EVERY single word with the band on EVERY single song.

Not that I was one of those or anything...

Some Classic shows from the Hammersmith Odeon/Apollo
(Thanks JohnG for turning me on to YouTube)

http://youtube.com/watch?v=0aRhqVWUPPs
http://youtube.com/watch?v=cUxEO51EYdY
.http://youtube.com/watch?v=eTJCnidpgfM

Friday and Saturday 15-16 December 2006

On Friday night we had a nice dinner in London with our friends the Jamiesons and the Burkes. It was time for the husbands to meet and it really was a great time! Christine and Phil stayed for the weekend and on Saturday night we went to see the musical review Dancing in the Streets. It was a really fabulous show that had Christine and me dancing in the aisles. I think that even the guys were singing along with a few songs! This is definitely one that I recommend and would see again. It was a really great way to spend our last 2006 weekend in London.

We’re off to Houston this week and will return in 2007. Christmas Blessings to all!

Friday through Sunday 1-3 December 2006

CHRISTMAS SHOPPING!!!

This was a shopping weekend! I went with my friends Gina and Christine on a three day shopping trip to the German Christmas Markets. We left London early Friday morning on the coach (bus) bound for Germany. We travelled to Dover where we crossed the English Channel on ferry to Calais, France. We went through France and Belgium and arrived in the German border town of Aachen late Friday afternoon. Yes – we covered 4 countries in one day. This is about the drive time from Houston to Dallas!! We dropped our bags at the hotel and took off for our first market run. It was an outside affair with many booths and vendors. We took a survey of things the first day knowing that we’d have a number of opportunities to shop. We bought just a few things and turned in early as we were off to Cologne on Saturday morning.

Cologne had 6 Christmas markets and we walked to the far end of town to catch the New Market as it opened. After 3 more markets, we realized that we were seeing many of the same things in each market – so we pulled out the Euros and started taking advantage of the storage space provided on the coach. Later in the evening we drove back into Aachen and revisited the market from Friday night. We bought Christmas gifts (for ourselves and others!) and had a great time fighting the crowds.

On Sunday we departed for Brugge to purchase the famous Belgian chocolates and handmade lace. Unfortunately, it was a rainy and cold day in Brugge. We did manage to purchase a few items, but decided to have a nice meal and visit. We had a wonderful meal in a nice (dry and warm) restaurant and just enjoyed the company. We reminisced about our last weekend away (this past summer to Langkawi while on a two week business trip in Kuala Lumpur).

It was a really wonderful weekend, full of adventures and laughs that we will definitely remember fondly on our next weekend away.

Sunday 26 November 2006

Wake up early this morning (another 4:30ish wake-up call) to take a hot air balloon ride over Luxor and the surrounding area. We got GREAT views of the Valley of the Kings/Queens and watched the sun rise over the desert. Amy even had a great time, as long as she didn’t look over the edge.

To end our trip we met most of our tour group for a final Lebanese meal. We finished off the night smoking banana and strawberry flavoured tobacco through a traditional hookah (water pipe).

Saturday 25 November 2006

After docking back in Luxor, we spend the whole morning touring the West Bank. There were not a lot of photo opportunities as cameras are not allowed in the tombs. The outsides of the tombs at The Valley of the Kings are very non-descript and are hidden amongst the cliffs. Inside, however, is something else as the walls and ceilings have kept most of the original colours.

Restrictions only allow us to visit 3 tombs and Sonia suggests two with the most vibrant artwork and one that has a cool deeeeeep passage to enter. Amy has recovered somewhat from the previous day, but politely declines the opportunity to crouch down the small opening of the last tomb.

Next was a visit to the Temple of Queen Hatshepsut, the first female pharaoh. Her temple is different from the rest as it incorporates several terraces and contrasting colonnades that seem to be carved directly into the mountainside behind.

After visiting two more tombs at the Valley of the Queens and a quick stop at the Colossi of Memnon, two huge seated statues, we also visit an alabaster factory.

Friday 24 November 2006

Today Amy is stricken with “Pharaoh’s Revenge”, a stomach disorder that has incapacitated several of our cruise mates. She spends most of the day in bed, but all she misses is deck time as today there are no excursions, just deck time as we make our way back down the Nile.

Figures… our last day on the boat and they decide to have turkey for dinner. The day AFTER Thanksgiving.

Thursday 23 November 2006

Happy Thanksgiving

Turkey kebob anyone?

For shear “wow” factor today was the day. I thought it would be Giza and the Sphinx, but today we visited the temples to Ramses II and Queen Nefertari in Abu-Simbel. Taking the turn around the hillside and seeing the four huge statues of Ramses II hewn from the Cliffside cannot be described. Again… photos do this no justice. Equally impressive was the temple to Nefertari.

Inside the hillside temples (unfortunately, no camera were allowed) was even more awe inspiring as the reliefs have kept their painted colours more so than any other site.


A quick lunch and we then had our “felucca” (a Nile river sail boat) trip. Just a little one hour cruise giving us a sample of local things.

Tonight was our “galabeya” night, where we dressed up in traditional Egyptian clothes and ate traditional Egyptian food. I finally got to try falafels. Not quite sure what I expected, but that wasn’t it. Afterwards, there was dancing, games and drinks. It was neat watching the crew have fun, as men have no problem dancing amongst themselves. Mohammed, our chef (for the record the food on this trip was awesome… I think I gain back most of the weight I had lost while in London), was the best dancer of the lot.

Wednesday 22 November 2006

This morning we had an early morning tour of the temple at Kom Ombo which was really cool because you can see it from its vantage point overlooking the Nile. Well… we saw it as we left because we were docked there overnight. This was a dual temple with Greek and Roman influences and was the first time we saw an image of Cleopatra. We were so early in fact that for a while we were the only people in the temple.

As we cruise further south we finally started getting into some desert scenery which is what we had envisioned it would be like.

This afternoon we dock in Aswan and are off for an afternoon of touring. We start with a visit to an ancient granite quarry site that still had an unfinished obelisk still embedded in the rock. After a quick stop at the High Dam of Aswan (which forms Lake Nasser) we take a small boat trip out to see the island temple at Philae.

Interesting Point: Tonight at dinner after talking with our tour guide, we found out that we (as a tour group) was under constant surveillance of the Egyptian military. We have at ALL times three armed guards on the boat, and when we leave we are “shadowed” by two other guards in a separate vehicle. Never, EVER did I notice this. Just goes to show you the environment we are travelling in. While assuring it was also eye-opening.

Tuesday 21 November 2006

A quick morning tour of the Temple of Khnum at Esna starts our day. Since the temple is so close to the river we walk there from our boat. It was rather small, but is the first temple we’ve seen that has Greek influence (thanks to Alexander the Great). Our walk back gives us our first taste of having to deal with street vendors hawking their goods. We’ve dealt with individuals pedalling items, but this time it was a good ten minute walk past several storefronts.

After an afternoon of cruising and sunning we docked at Edfu and took a horse drawn carriage (are we a bunch of tourists or what?) to the Temple of Horus. This was the most intact temple we’ve seen so far. Even the innermost sanctuary with its granite altar was intact. Horus, the falcon-headed god of the sky, is my favourite deity, (not sure why, but he is) and there were several reliefs and a large granite statue of his image.

What made this visit a little more “moving” was we were in the temple during the broadcast of the Islamic afternoon prayer.

Monday 20 November 2006

A 4:00 AM wake up call started our day as we flew south to Luxor (originally Thebes).

Observation: I had more issues going through security at the various museums/sites than I did at the Cairo airport.

Upon landing in Luxor, we hit the ground running catching our coach (bus to you Yanks) to tour the temples at Karnak and Luxor.

The Temple to Amon-Ra at Karnak, to me, was the most impressive site I visited (Amy’s was Ramses II’s temple at Abu-Simbol, but more on that later). The temple complex was built and expanded over the course of 2000 years, overseen by over 30 pharaohs and exceeds 240 acres in area. The most impressive part was the Hypostyle Hall and its 134 hieroglyphic covered columns reaching over 75 ft. in height. Include the two still standing obelisks and this site was simply amazing. I really could have spent all day here.

I wish we would have seen the Luxor Temple first today. While its large statue of Ramses II and its Avenue of Sphinxes leading up to its entrance was impressive, it just paled in comparison to Karnak.

After a morning of touring these two facilities we checked into our Nile cruise boat, The Royal Serenade, for the start of our 5 day Nile cruise. At it turns out the people in our group are the only ones on board, which will make it even more enjoyable.

Sunday 19 November 2006

FULL day!!

We started with a trip out to Giza to see the Great Pyramids and the Sphinx. Seeing the Pyramids up close is like seeing the Grand Canyon for the first time. You are awestruck and the photos you take can not do the experience justice. Then throw in the fact that they are over 4000 years old and man-made, and well…. You get the point.
We didn’t go into the tombs, but we did get several vantage points of the complete complex (ok… how many of you knew there were more than three pyramids here?? Anyone?? Anyone?? Bueller?).
The Great Sphinx was next. Again… everyone has seen pictures of it, but one cannot really describe the feeling of actually standing next to it.

Part of our tour included a camel ride. At first neither of us was going to do it, then I was and Amy was just going to take pictures. Amy was talked into standing next to me and having our Egyptian handler take the pictures. Then she was talked into sitting on the camel with me… “just for a picture”. Raise your hand if you know what happens next. As soon as she sat on… UP with the camel and away we went. Honestly…these might be the best pictures taken of our whole trip.

That afternoon we visited the ancient city of Memphis (sorry no Elvis sightings) with its large fallen statue of Ramses II and Alabaster Sphinx.

We then travelled west into the desert to visit the necropolis of Saqqara. Located here is the oldest stone structure in the world, the Step Pyramid of Djoser dating back to 2600 B.C. While Amy chose not to, I ventured down a 40” x 40” shaft into a tomb of another smaller pyramid.

Saturday 18 November 2006

Walk like an…..

Today we arrived in Cairo (at 2:00 in the MORNING!! Thankyouverymuch) for the start of our first long holiday, a tour of Egypt and the Upper and Lower Nile. We decided on a completely guided tour and it was a great decision. Sonia, our tour guide and Egyptologist, was excellent, as was our group which only numbered nineteen.

Cairo is a zoo, and it becomes evident that they REALLY like to honk their horns as they drive, mainly because the concept of lanes on the roads doesn’t exist. While Amy was already exposed to it from her travels in Malaysia, I was caught off guard by the broadcasting of Islamic prayer from the mosques.

We started our holiday with a tour of the Egyptian Museum of Antiquities. Like the Louvre, one could spend a week wandering through all the rooms. Cameras were not allowed sadly, but the obvious highlight was the treasure room of Tutankhamun. While I have learned to respect time and history more since living in London, there is something to be said for viewing pieces that are over 4000 years old.